After spending three relaxing days in Alexandria, we headed south toward Cairo. The drive was pleasantly uneventful, cruising down a wide and surprisingly quiet toll road — a rare experience given the traffic chaos we’d seen in Lebanon and Egypt so far. The mystery of the empty road was soon solved: a free two-lane highway to our right carried the bulk of the truck traffic. We found ourselves wishing such a system existed back home.
Welcome to Cairo – Crowded, Historic, and Alive
Cairo is one of the most densely populated capitals in the world, with over 17 million residents — ranking just behind New York City. The traffic confirmed it. As we neared the city, we caught a hazy glimpse of two pyramids off in the distance. It was one of those surreal moments when it hits you: “We’re really in Egypt.”
But what truly excited us was the long-awaited reunion with our friend, BV Chef, after months of planning. We checked into our hotel and spent the afternoon relaxing, carefully coordinating how early we’d wake up to meet him after his 24-hour journey. We had his flight numbers, tracked his progress across the Atlantic, and crafted the perfect plan… or so we thought.
The next morning, just as Dave was about to shower, the phone rang — it was the front desk: Brendan had arrived! Our well-timed plan was already foiled, but we didn’t care. Dave rushed downstairs and reunited with Brendan after two long years. The adventure had officially begun!
Day One: Mummies, Mayhem, and Museums
Our first outing took us to the nearby Egyptian Museum. Crossing the chaotic streets of Cairo was an adventure in itself — locals casually dart between traffic while we, less experienced, hesitated and dashed with wide eyes.
The museum, true to reputation, was overflowing with mummies, sarcophagi (a word we rarely use!), statues, chariots, manuscripts, and relics galore. The sheer volume of ancient artifacts is mind-blowing, offering a window into thousands of years of history. It’s clear: being a pharaoh had its perks.
What surprised us, though, was how many of these priceless treasures were not protected by glass or barriers. Some had signs asking visitors not to touch, but others seemed casually displayed with little security. The building itself is old and not air-conditioned — far from ideal conditions for preserving fragile history. A new museum is under construction, but we were told it’s been “almost done” for over a decade.
We also learned about mummification — a 70-day ritual reserved for royalty, involving organ removal, salt, sand, and wrapping. The poor, unable to afford such a luxury, were cremated. The contrast was stark.
MJ couldn’t help but note that traveling with Dave and Brendan means nonstop jokes, especially around mummies. It brought to mind Abbott and Costello Meet the Mummy — humor and history, always a good mix.
Hotter Than Expected – And Not Just the Food
We had packed based on forecasts calling for mild winter weather — around 68°F (20°C). But Cairo surprised us with a sudden heatwave, soaring to 90°F (32°C) each day. So much for planning.
Politically, Egypt has seen major shifts since the 2011 revolution, when protesters filled Tahrir Square demanding change. The movement led to President Mubarak’s resignation after 30 years in power. While political reform has been slow, the unrest significantly impacted tourism, a vital part of the country’s economy. Slowly but surely, visitors are beginning to return.
Security and Souks: The Cairo Contrasts
Security presence is visible across the city — guards, checkpoints, even bomb-sniffing dogs at our hotel. One such dog, a sleepy golden retriever we affectionately named Molly, had to be woken up to sniff our car. It was amusing, but a reminder of the reality Egyptians live with.
Cairo clearly attracts more tourists than Alexandria. At the museum, several buses of Asian tourists arrived, and we took it as a hopeful sign that tourism is rebounding. We personally felt safe throughout our stay and hope others will feel the same. Egypt is open for visitors — and it’s absolutely worth the trip.
Our hotel overlooked the mighty Nile — the world’s longest river. Flowing south to north, it confuses newcomers, especially when hearing that “Upper Egypt” refers to the south. In a country that is largely desert, the Nile is life itself — providing water, fertile land, and sustaining millions.
The Pyramids: Majestic, Timeless, Unforgettable
Then came the moment we’d all been waiting for: visiting the Great Pyramids of Giza. No movie or documentary can prepare you for the awe of seeing them in person. Towering above the landscape, these structures are marvels of engineering and imagination.
We rode Arabian horses near the site — a gentle stroll, not a wild gallop, thank you very much — and posed for photos with a camel. Cheesy? Maybe. Memorable? Absolutely. Even as seasoned travelers, the pyramids left a powerful impression.
A Taste of Turkey in Cairo
One unexpected highlight was the incredible Turkish restaurant in our hotel. After raving about the food, we chatted with the chef — who used to live in Savannah, Georgia — and asked if he’d consider cooking something special for us. He agreed, and we enjoyed an unforgettable culinary experience with Brendan. Once again, we found ourselves feeling lucky and full of gratitude.
Bonus Tip: A Great Local Guide
If you’re visiting Cairo, we highly recommend Hanan Omara as a guide. Fluent in English, knowledgeable, and friendly — she made a big difference. You can find her on Facebook or email her at hananomara@hotmail.com.
Final Stop: The Souks
Before leaving, we wandered into one of Cairo’s sprawling souks. The maze-like streets were filled with similar items repeated over and over. It wasn’t quite our thing, but we admired the energy. We were among the few foreigners there and got approached more than a few times by shopkeepers — all part of the experience.
Final Thoughts on Cairo
Cairo is massive, vibrant, and full of life. We explored both upscale neighborhoods and older, more rustic areas. While the city may not have the same charm as some other world capitals we’ve visited, seeing the pyramids alone made it more than worthwhile. It’s a place we’re glad we saw — even if we’re not rushing back.
With our reunion complete and new memories made, it was time to head off… into the desert, chasing the next adventure.
